Radically transformed for autumn/winter 2010/11, the simple, slinky knee length cocktail dress, both with or without sleeves, returns to pick up its protagonist role in the female wardrobe. Over eighty years old, the little black dress, launched by the great Coco Chanel, has been taken as an example of style and elegance for numerous designers. Antonio Berardi pays homage with an entire collection of incredibly feminine black dresses, borrowing seductive transparency, bustiers and sweetheart necklines from the universe of lingerie to create a nonstop, figure flattering, play of peek-a-boo. Others, however, opt for more daring decorations and shorter lengths, resulting in a sort of tutu complete with an infinity of ruches, gathered flounces, braids ribbons, marabou, fringes and jet for a Charleston look. In fact the latter is developed into dainty slinky dresses totally plated in crystal beads, maxi sequins, metal plaques and other bright embellishments with a vague retro mood. Plenty of black and silver, followed by cream and, in particular, the latest shade of bronze, rigorously lamé or shiny. Ruches take over as the trendiest sartorial technique, and designer duo Chiuri e Piccioli propose a complete collection for the Valentino Fashion House, reinterpreting and adapting them on both daywear and evening gowns. Attention grabbing, floor length, body-hugging mermaid dresses with spatial steel and gold finishes, transformed into elegant, sophisticated tunics fit for Greek goddesses, in red and black velvet. Continuing with more unconventional proposals like impeccable golden-age dinner jackets, whilst Alberta Ferretti, Yves Saint Laurent and Nina Ricci, amongst others, present feminine, ethereal, nude-look evening gowns with fluttering chiffon skirts and sumptuous bodices featuring gathers and plisse, an explosion of romantic rose petals. Shoulders are generally left bare and plunging back necklines focus on shapely backs. Parisian catwalks, in particular, tend to return to tradition, to regal, majestic gowns, in magnificently worked fine fabrics: Byzantine inspired embroidery, duchesse and brocades. The look is completed with boleros, tuxedoes, cloaks and capes. images: more than 800